So after getting my Creality CR-10 3D printer, I was fortunate to acquire the latest and greatest Anet E10 3D printer! At a glance, you could say it’s better than the CR-10 (psst: it’s not), but below I’ll dig into various reasons how the E10 differs to it and why it’s a decent candidate to buy. I’ve also made a YouTube video about it below to help you see what this printer is about. I’ve included some comparisons to the CR-10 throughout to help you see what this printer is about.
- 1 Quick Overview of the Anet E10 3D Printer
- 2 Cost of the E10
- 3 3D Printer Coupons and Deals
- 4 Appearance and Quality of the
- 5 Anet E10 3D printer
- 6 Video of the E10 3D printer
- 7 Assembly of the Anet E10 3D printer
- 8 Filament
- 9 Issues and Fixes
- 10 Sample Prints of the Anet E10
- 11 Final Thoughts and Conclusion
- 12 Quick Specs
Quick Overview of the Anet E10 3D Printer
Here are some quick stats about the printer:
- The control unit comes integrated with a 12864 LCD screen. It’s nice and big, easy to use, and shows the monitoring information very clearly. This includes temperature of the hot end, bed and percentage completed of the print.
- This printer supports 0.1 – 0.4mm layer thickness.
- Micro SD card slot for offline printing. (You don’t need to directly connect your printer to it, just save your design to the SD card and print from there!)
- A nice big print volume: 220 x 270 x 300mm.
- Has a nice sturdy aluminium frame with sweet green accents.
- The assembly is very simple, as setup time is super fast! (Took me about an hour).
Cost of the E10
Right now, the Anet E10 3d printer is fairly moderately priced. It’s a printer with one of the largest print volumes for its size. If you want to buy one, there are coupon codes that you can use for a better price:
With this coupon, it’s around $290 USD, which is of course an excellent price to get into the 3D printer market. A lot cheaper that the CR-10, with fairly minor performance differences.
WIth this coupon, you get some free filament too! $289.99 should be the updated price.
3D Printer Coupons and Deals
Below are some great deals and coupons you can use to get the most out of your dollar for a 3D printer!
Creality CR-10 Deal and Coupon
Check it out here!
I3 Mega Deal and Coupon
COUPON: THE_I3MEGAUS $355.99 for US Version
COUPON: THE_I3MEGAEU $349.99 For UK version
Check it out here!
Anet E10 Deal and Coupon
Anet A8 Deal and Coupon
COUPON: GBA8EU just 200 Pieces for EU warehouse
Check it out here!
Anet A6 Deal and Coupon
COUPON: GBA6EU from EU
Check it out here!
The best 3D printer deals
Appearance and Quality of the
Anet E10 3D printer
If you’re familiar with the Creality CR-10, you could say that the Anet E10 is it’s baby brother. Almost an identical frame (except smaller), you’d think that they came from the same factory (they probably do). There are several key aspects of the Anet E10 3d printer that make it distinct though.
- Heated bed pad
- One interesting thing that is a noticeable difference from the CR10 is the headed bed pad. This printer comes with an adhesive black pad that fits nicely to the aluminium bed. This means that there’s no TAPE or NO sugar solution to deal with 🙂 A nice added bonus means that you also don’t have to deal with glass. The time-to-heat is drastically reduced because of this, and it makes me a happy person. I’d say it cuts heating time to about 30-50% of a bigger bed, which is awesome. So if you want to make a quick print, you don’t have to wait 10 minutes just to get started. This is one of my favourite features of this printer.
- Compact Footprint
- It’s definitely a small form factor. However, it still holds an absolutely huge print volume. This makes it A LOT easier to move around than some of the bigger printers.
- Dual Z axis motors / rods.
- On each side of the Z axis frame, there are threaded rods that help to raise and lower the gantry. The CR10 only has one.
- 3D printed parts
- Some of the parts of the Anet E10 have been clearly 3D printed. Some examples include the filament spool holder, and some rod/pin brackets. This was likely used to reduce costs. But, they aren’t really key parts, and it’s an interesting addition.
- Nice Green Accents
- The colour on this printer is really nice. Even the decals and green stripe on the control box make it look really nice, and gives it a professional finish.
- One thing that I noticed straight away was the noise (or lack) of this printer! It’s very nice and quiet, and doesn’t have that harsh hissing or thrashing of some other printers.
- Spare parts
- One bonus of this is the range of spares this comes with. It comes with a range of tools, a scraper, some spare hex bolts and an extra hot-end.
One small grievance I have with this printer is the slight Z-wobble with the printing. This gives some prints some slight unevenness on the Z-axis. This could be from some loose components. I’m investigating the cause.
Video of the E10 3D printer
Assembly of the Anet E10 3D printer
Assembling the printer isn’t hard at all. The few small pages of instructions that come with the printer do a surprisingly good job of guiding you through the already basic assembly. All that it takes is firstly joining the Z frame to the base XY frame with some hex-nuts. That’s the bulk of the work. You then need to solidify the connection of the Z frame to the XY frame with some bigger hex bolts from the bottom. You then need to start wiring up the unit, and this isn’t hard with well-labeled wires. The heating element goes neatly into the hot-end, and so does the thermistor, then the hot end unit is enclosed with the fan cover.
However, there doesn’t seem to be instructions with assembling the hot bed. To do this, you just need to insert the thin bolts through the holes in the bed, put the springs on the opposite side of the aluminium, and then press this down on the printer. Now, screwing on the nuts will keep the aluminium bed fastened to the printer, and now it can be levelled properly. The following image shows you what it should look like.
Top Assembly Tips
There were a few small moments that were slightly irritating with the assembly that I came across. Letting you know here might save you some time in assembly, they are as follows:
- I was missing a couple of small hex bolts. These could have been from my own misplacement, so I can’t say if they were missing from the box.
- The “extruder” and “X axis” labels were mixed up. That’s right, the wires were wrong. So when you install yours, just navigate to “auto-home” on the printer control box and see if it behaves as it should. I swapped these two wires after I saw something wasn’t working right, and it fixed my issue.
- The two motors for the X axis and Z axis have ports for the wires that face in. I found this was an issue because the bold on the aluminium bed kept hitting these ports when it moves on the Y axis. So before you assemble the bed, I recommend unscrewing the two motors and rotating them 90 degrees. You can see how this looks in the image below.
- Pay attention to the wiring, especially with the limiting switches. It might be easy to swap the RED and BLACK wires. This is a small inconvenience to pay for the drop in price of this printer.
The printer also came with 20 meters of filament which was a nice surprise! It uses 1.75mm thick PLA, but also takes all the other regular types of filament. I’m also really impressed with the default filament it comes with, it’s actually better than the dedicated stuff I buy off the internet…
Issues and Fixes
So after a couple of days tinkering with the machine and going back and forth, I have fixed the issues I had with this machine (the jaggedness of the prints, z wobble).
- The fans/hot end/ extruder module that sits on the gantry (I’ll refer to as the printer head) was loose. I tried so hard to get it to tighten and be solid like my CR10, but it was a struggle. What finally fixed the issue was unscrewing the top two wheels, and the bottom wheel. I then pushed the bottom wheel up (it has a slotted hole) as far as possible and screwed it back in. After then screwing the top screws back in, it felt as solid as the Creality.
- Tightening the y-axis belt also helped. There are two screws that you can use to tighten the vertical and horizontal alignment of the y axis belt of the Anet E10.
- I stated before that rotating the Z motors 90 degrees helped solve the issue of the hot bed moving through, but this then introduced the z motors being un-level as they were partly sitting on the green colouring, giving it a slight slope. I fixed this by rotating a further 90 degrees (total 180) so that the electrical ports of the z motors now face externally. These 3 points virtually erased all issues.
Sample Prints of the Anet E10
Below are some sample shots of prints of the Anet E10 that I’ve printed.
(The last one is a before and after the modifications, noticeable improvement.).
Final Thoughts and Conclusion
The Anet E10 3D printer is a decent entry level printer for the price (but with the coupon!). Is it as good as the CR10? No. But it still has some great elements as a budget printer. If I can manage to fix the z-wobble (which I have), I’d highly recommend it. Given it’s fast setup time and no-fuss printing, it isn’t bad. The quietness, relatively large print volume and compactness are some points I really like about it. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at firstname.lastname@example.org or leave a comment on this post! It’s made cheap, but the small fixes can get it up to par.
|Product forming size||220 x 270 x 300mm|
|Micro SD Card Support||Yes|
|Print speed||40 – 120mm/s|
|File formats||G-code, STL|
|XY-axis positioning accuracy||0.015mm|
|Z-axis positioning accuracy||0.004mm|
|OS Support||Windows, Mac|
|Product weight||7.8000 kg|
|Package weight||9.0000 kg|
|Product size||40.00 x 44.00 x 49.50 cm / 15.75 x 17.32 x 19.49 inches|
|Package size||50.00 x 45.00 x 20.00 cm / 19.69 x 17.72 x 7.87 inches|